Inverness: The Gateway to the Highlands

​Wherever I wander, wherever I rove; the hills of the highland for ever I love. -Robert Burns 

Quote borrowed from 50 Gorgeous Quotes about Scotland & Scotland Instagram Caption Inspiration - History Fangirl

Inverness

Day 5 of Travel

The Highlands.  

It's a mystical place of lore, brought to the world by a TV series about time travel.  We were told it's currently the fastest growing city in Europe, and its energy and history create an incredible atmosphere confirmed this theory.

We arrived in Inverness in the morning, catching a train from Edinbrough.  Backpackers followed in behind us.  They were excited to be heading north, seemingly having been on the move for a while now.  The train filled quickly with more backpackers, shoppers, and a variety of travelers.  We were surprised this early morning train out of town was so busy.

​When we arrived in Inverness, it was clear to see why.

Tucked into a corner, the exit from the rail station opened onto a bustling main street.  People were coming and going, while cars and buses navigated how to share the road between them.    As we trekked to our Airbnb, we headed towards the river and passed shops of Scottish goods, from kilts to souvenirs.  We passed restaurants of all types, each one busier than the next. 

After a few wrong turns, we dropped our luggage off and got directions to the bus that would take us out to Culloden.  Up and down a few flights of steps and we found the bus depot.  Inverness' depot is really interesting if you happen to be an experienced traveler in Europe.  Due to the location, the trains do not continue onward to the North.  For some places, Inverness is the end of the line.  We saw groups of travelers headed out to all sorts of places in the Highlands, and it was fun to think about the adventures they were headed for.

Our bus, however, was going to be about an hour later than when we arrived.  We decided to explore the city and hopefully find some food.  A few turns and we landed ourselves in the historic Victorian Market.  Shops of all kinds lined the former open aired marketplace.  The roof now encloses a time capsule of days gone by.  The shops are open and friendly, standing in doorways and walking to the people of the city.  We ventured to the center and found a food court.  And one of the best meals we found in the UK.

Gluten-Free fish and chips!

The UK is famous for fish and chips, but it was difficult to find the last time we were across the pond.  We found a small vendor in the corner of the food court serving and GF option and it was a must try.  So we ordered a serving.

It was so good, we ordered a second.

Full and happy we made our way back to the bus depot and caught the bus to Culloden.  Culloden was so incredible it will have a post of it's own following this one.  

We made a last minute decision to take a taxi to the Clava Carins.  These ancient mounds continue to amaze us as we travel and find ruins of ancient civilizations whose history remains unknown.  

We headed back to town and changed for an evening of walking and exploring the city as we looked for dinner.  While Inverness Castle was currently closed for renovations, we took time to peek in shops, learn about kilts, and take pictures of the city skylines.  We came across St. Mary's Church and took a moment to explore the architecture.  It was one of our favorite churches, as we felt the smell of old wood clearly set the ambiance of the space.

St. Mary's Church, Inverness

Hungry, we found a restaurant of the main street that didn't require seating reservations.  One thing we did learn in the Highlands was that finding food didn't come as easily as we hoped.  Most popular places take reservations in advance and do not allow patrons to wait for available seating.  While we ate we watched as those around us began to get into a Friday night spirit.  The floor in front of us changed into a dance floor.  Outside, other restaurants were slowly turning into nighttime destinations, and young and old travelers began to enter the doors for pints and night of music and fun.

We headed out once more for a final stroll to catch the sunset over the river.  As the city settled, we found a bar labeled "the oldest in the highlands" and joined the crowd inside.  The musician on the stage played a variety of music from traditional too well-known songs while those watching sang along or danced in the natural space created in the front.  We sat outside in a converted alley to listen and enjoy the night air before heading back for the night to prepare for our trek to the Isle of Skye the next day.  

Inverness was a city you want to stay in longer.  While you know the highlands are just beginning outside of its city walls, you long to stay to learn more and become a part of its vibrant energy.  As a traveler it draws you in to the experience, giving you the opportunity to simply become lost in its streets for a moment, even if it's not a very big city to begin with.  

It's the reason we travel.  While we love to explore well known places, the draw to towns like Inverness continue to make exploration while traveling the center for our purpose.  When you only know a little about a place, the city will open itself up to you, almost like a book, asking you to come and read it.

You, in turn, become part of its story.  You make your own mark, even if it's not historical.  When people talk of towns, and only so many have been there, you have a shared experience within the city walls.  Cities like Inverness connect us through its charm and beauty, waiting for us to come again for the next experience.

And it does help that almost everyone watches one particular TV series.

Losing my phone and my things was a regular experience on this trip.  I also broke my sunglasses in Inverness.  As you continue to travel, especially if you are someone that doesn't have a lot of pockets in their clothing, consider grabbing a small bag to wear to keep all your belongings in.  The link below will take you to a page of suggestions for traveling, but if you want to avoid frustration during your tip, grab a small bag.

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