First decision for hitting the Ring Road?  Do you travel west or east?

There are a number of recommendations to travel in a counterclockwise direction on the Ring Road in Iceland, and they are all valid.  However, we'll make the argument for driving in a clockwise direction.  First up, what you'll see heading west towards Snæfellsjökull National Park and the Snæfells Peninsula.

As you travel towards the peninsula on Route 1, the road begins to take definition.  GPS and maps are a must, as there are few sticky spots along the way.  The first we landed on is a tunnel that winds itself under a Fjord.  It was slightly nerve-wracking to think about.  As luck would have it,  the tunnel closed and we were rerouted around the water.  This proved to be an excellent detour, as we began to find waterfalls along the way!

First up, Fossárrétt and Viking Ruins in the Kjosarhreppur region.  With very little information and new to Iceland, we simply would stop when we saw something in front of us.  The hike to Fossárrétt was easy enough, and passed through Viking sheep pen ruins.  There's not a lot of information on them, but they were a great first day find.

Hraunforssar is next on the stops towards the peninsula.  On first glance, the waterfalls run along the side of s seemingly low cliff, creating a variety of falls along the river that runs below.  It isn't until you give the falls close inspection that you realize there are no rivers above the cliffs, and the water is actually pouring out from the side.  We learned later the waterfalls are created by a series of underground, hidden watersheds which flow from the lava fields nearby. 

Just a short walk from Hraunfossar is a second set of waterfalls.  Barnafloss is slightly difficult to photograph, as the walk ways don't quite allow you to catch all of them.  The waterfalls have a sad history, being named after the loss of children who had come to play from a nearby home.  It's a place to definitely pause and give reflection.

The last stop of day one on the road was an unexpected tour at The Cave.  We'll write a more in depth post about this growing company.  The Cave takes you down into a lava tunnel.  We have been hiking through a variety of caves the last few years.  Lava tunnels have a uniqueness about them unlike anything we have seen so far.  Well worth the trip with the team running the tour.  You definitely need waterproof hiking boots and rain jackets.  Find ours HERE.  (We are Amazon Affiliates and do make a small compensation for qualifying purchases.)

Still continuing to learn how to manage a campervan life and jet lag playing a role in waking up extremely early in the morning, we found our first true campground.  Simple with just bathrooms, we learned quickly showers would be part of the adventure.  

We do recommend the Happy Camper Campsite Map.  We are not affiliated with Happy Camper, and we highly recommend using the map to help locate your spots to stop for the night!
​https://happycampers.is/resources/campsite-map/

After landing in Iceland and spending a night in the Golden Circle, we realized we needed a new game plan.  Taking that one night to stay near Reykjavik is key to getting started out on the Ring Road the right way.  While we figured out things along the way, we're here to start you off right.  By the time you get to Dettifoss, you'll be a pro!  (Dettifoss is an upcoming post!)

Let's talk about Costco.  (We are not affiliates and make nothing for recommending them.)  It was the best find on day two.  Not only does Costco help cut the cost by being able to buy in bulk for a camping trip out on the Ring Road, you go in knowing Kirkland brands.  For two people who have Celiac, this was the biggest win.  We were able to find brands of food with English translation that were gluten free.  The day before, we had combed through the grocery store trying the find the gluten free translations.  Costco made life so much better.

Tip:  Purchase a bag of frozen peas from Costco.  While you will not eat them, peas hold cold in.  Due to not having typical coolers in Iceland, we were able to keep our cold food longer having the peas on top to keep the cold in.

There are other grocery stores around Iceland, and you will need to stop along the way for Ice and replenishing some of the food that requires cold.  There are three grocery stores we recommend:
Bonus, Kronan, and Netto.  Bonus and Kronan are considered the cheapest, Netto had the best selection of gluten free items.

Iceland, like many European countries, does separate specialty needs into other stores. You cannot get over the counter medicine in a supermarket.  If you find yourself in need of say, an antacid, head over to Lyfja.  We found one in the mall.  

You can find some beer in grocery stores, however, liquors and wine are sold at Vinbud.  

We did learn if you are in need of cigarettes in Iceland, you can purchase them in gas stations.  They are not displayed.  Iceland requires them to be locked away in unmarked drawers.

We loved cooking outside.  Our campervan came with all necessary cooking needs, including soap and sponges.  We highly recommend bringing a few dish size microfiber towels.  They are just handy to have for drying and cleaning up messes.  

Don't forget charging cords!  You will also want to purchase internet for the campervan.  While service worked fairly well all over the island, it definitely saved on overage costs by not having to use the international plan.  

Last but not least: purchase the Arm and Hammer baking soda balls.  This was our first trip we found them, and we will not travel without them.  Hiking in the cold, rain, and heat does a number on shoes.  Because of the close quarters, wet shoes and socks quickly can leave a scent.  Wet clothes as well.  These went into all of the shoes as well as various spots near the wet clothes.  Can't recommend them enough!  Find them HERE!  (We are Amazon affiliates and we do make a small compensation from qualifying purchases.)

Packed and ready, we started out onto the Ring Road.  Get ready to see our amazing adventure!

We arrived in Iceland.  We had our retrofitted SUV campervan.  We had landed at 6 AM and had visited the Reykjanes Peninsula.  We were ready to hit the Golden Circle, the must do for any Iceland visitor.  Also, a must do on the FIRST day for anyone planning a trip around the Ring Road leaving from Reykjavik.  We'll explain.

Heading clockwise around the Golden Circle is Mosfellskirkja.  A church and graveyard just outside Reykjavik, it's a beautiful spot to stop and take in the beginning sites.  (It's also a great place to pull off to take a quick nap on the first day.)  Just a few visitors and a small hiking path, it's worth the stop to see.

Next, we found ourselves at Pingvellir.  There is a park building with information, bathrooms, and this is an entrance to the National Park behind it.  As we were trying to get our footing, we missed really heading into the park.  It's on our return list.

We missed Pinvellir because we were on the hunt for waterfalls our first day.  Iceland did not disappoint.  We found ourselves at Bruarfoss, which was not marked on the planning map we had purchased.  You can hike to Bruarfoss, however, with the new construction, it is now an easy drive up to the entrance.  Well worth the stop to see the glacier blue water streaming down and over the rocks.  The water collapses in on itself in this very unique formation.

Next on the list is Geysir.  Thanks to geothermal conditions, Iceland has a geothermal field in which geysir's are going off and being created at the same time.  The path walks you among three different natural wonders.  The thermal field does smell heavily of sulfur, for those that do need the heads up.  It easy enough to navigate around the fields to avoid heavy impacts.   It's well worth the stop.

As we began to finish our first day, we made it to our goal destination.  Gullfoss is the most famous waterfall in Iceland, and an incredible site on the Golden Circle.  Visitors are able to walk along various paved paths to see the waterfall from different angles.  It is a very busy site, so try to go early in the morning or later in the evening, as we were able too.  It did help.  

However, we were almost over an hour outside of Reykjavik, it was 6 PM in Iceland, and 10 PM at home.  We had been up since 2 AM our time, and we were spent.  We camped right next to Geysir at a very comfortable spot with all the necessary needs.

We were awake by 5 am on day 2.

Not to waste a minute of travel, being fully rested and feeling much better, we headed to out to complete the circle.  Our first stop was Faxifoss.  This waterfall actually sits within a campground.  You can access it during the day, and camp overnight next to it if you make it to that point.  

Skaholt was next on the list, and we ended up going here twice.  When we arrive at 7 am, the church itself was not open.  We walked the grounds and ended up find a crypt beneath the church that we knew we had to come back for.  Skaholt was the seat of the Catholic faith as well as the Lutheran faith as Iceland made decisions between the regions.  It was a center for education, as well as death.  We found it held a rich history worth visiting.  When we returned two hours later, we met Axle, a wonderful Icelander who took time out of his morning to share history with us.  

We rounded out the Golden Circle with a trip to the Kerid Crater.  We headed there very early in the morning, which is highly recommended.  There is an amazing peace at the crater, that comes before the busses arrive with eager tourists.  The colors stand out brightly against the grays embedded in Iceland's landscape.  It's pool at the bottom of the crater was the only one we found like it on the island, giving it another point for uniqueness.  

In total, you could do the circle in one day if you started early enough.  As we started from touring the Reykjanes, we needed two.  However, it's well worth planning this way.  Having one day on the road in the campervan allowed us to get a little bit of a lens on what we may or may not need as we headed out onto the Ring Road for our adventure.  It was then it was decided we would have one last stop in Reykjavik before we left town.  

Next up:  Costco and the West of Iceland

You've landed in Keflavik, at the international airport that services the majority of flights both in an out of Iceland.  Keflavik sits on the edge of the Reykjanes Peninsula, a small jut of land just south of Reykjavik.  The Reykjanes is the beginning of our trip to Iceland, and the place to start.

The expectation of Iceland and it's incredible views are slightly lost on the peninsula.  Being the location of the most recent volcano activity, the peninsula lays out flat for miles around the airport.  

Using your Rick Steve's planning map, (affliate link) you find immediately the peninsula has two major spots you'll want to see:  the Bridge Between Two Continents and Gunnuhver.  Now, there are quite a few more stops along the way on the peninsula.  So make sure you have that map to catch them!

The Bridge Between Two Continents

Essentially, this is one of the most important first stops to make in Iceland.  It is not extremely popular, yet it is the defining geological feature that gives Iceland it's story.  Before you take the journey into her world, you have to know where her story begins.

At the heart of Iceland is the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.  This is the meeting point between the Eurasian Tectonic Plate and the North American Tectonic Plate.  Here, two different continents meet in two different ways.  The plates are consistently sliding apart, allowing magma from below to rise and form new land below.  Along the ridge to the north, the plates slide against each other.  These intense land mass movements are what create the active volcano scene in Iceland, as the ridge itself is an opening to the depts of the earth below.

Gunnuhver

Gunnuhver (named for local folklore) is the central focal point of the UNESCO Global Geopark on Reykjanes.  Due to the flowing mantle below, heat warms the waters above, creating the largest mud pool in Iceland.  Gunnuhver will shoot water from below at various times, and steam is found to be consistently rising from the ground. 

While Gunnuhver is not the most impressive geothermal mud we found, it Gunnuhver provides information and insight into how the residents of Iceland are able to use the natural geothermal hot spots as part of their ability to have lived sustainably on the island long before convivences arrived from around the world.

Next stop on the Campervan Tour of Iceland:

The Golden Circle